Tried this on a car forum, no responses

[FatalException0E]

Any car nuts here know someplace I can look?



I want to upgrade the brakes on my '02 Chrysler Sebring LXi coupe (really a Mitsu Eclipse GT with a different body) The LX model came with 15" wheels and shares brakes with the LXi and its 17" wheels. If the brakes felt OK, the way they look in the wheel wouldn't matter so much to me. But they just don't feel like they have good stopping power at speed, and an emergency stop on the highway is enough to warp a just-resurfaced rotor that still has lots of metal left on it. (really ticked me off, too)

So can I get some bigger brakes to put on the front? Also, I'd like to put the stock front brakes on the back. I should be able to do the work myself if I can find the parts.

[thirdfey]

So you are looking for aftermarket brakes? I'm a motorcycle guy so all I know is Brembo, Spiegler, etc.

You can't find anything else that could be causing your problem. With motorcycles, if it feels spongy, bleeding the brakes and/or switching to steel braided lines (rubber expands) and changing to a different brand of pads seem to be the cheap way to go. Hope someone actually knowledgeable responds to you though

[FatalException0E]

So you are looking for aftermarket brakes? I'm a motorcycle guy so all I know is Brembo, Spiegler, etc.

You can't find anything else that could be causing your problem. With motorcycles, if it feels spongy, bleeding the brakes and/or switching to steel braided lines (rubber expands) and changing to a different brand of pads seem to be the cheap way to go. Hope someone actually knowledgeable responds to you though

Gee, too bad my motorcycle's brakes work great.

[i n e p t]

try this 1 out... Auto Parts Performance - Import OEM Parts Catalog

[Atodini]

Hi FE,

By rotors, do you mean the brake discs as we call them over here?

If they are the vented type, which I guess they would be, no way should they ever be skimmed / resurfaced no matter how much metal there appears to be, or they will warp very badly when heated. Even solid discs are sometimes unable to be resurfaced if the wear is too great.

Resurfacing brake discs is generally frowned upon in England and no reputable machine shop would dare resurface a vented disc as they would be liable when it failed, which it surely would. In extreme cases re-ground discs have been known to actually shatter under heavy use, the consequences of which doesn't bear thinking about!!

I reckon a new set of discs & pads together with a flush out and change of brake fliud would make a world of difference.....

I changed all four discs on our '00 Citroen Xantia turbodiesel (auto) last year, fronts (ventilated) were £28 each, rears (solid) £24 plus £40 each end for pads and £5 for (synthetic) brake fluid. The whole job took me only a couple of hours... a couple of hundred pounds well spent!

John

[FatalException0E]

I didn't want the disks resurfaced. The mechanic doing the brake job did it in the interest of saving me money (very little saved, big pain in the arse because of it) Anyway, the brakes stink. They stunk when new, and they stink worse now. I've found a few things online. I think I'll stay away from the 4-piston racing job that's over $1800 for parts. (front only)

Looks like I'll spend about $450 or so in parts for an upgraded front brake kit, and another $60-$90 for a good jack and jack stands to do the work myself. I'm also checking i n e p t's link to see if they can set me up any better.

[FatalException0E]

try this 1 out... Auto Parts Performance - Import OEM Parts Catalog

That site would be nice......if it didn't say 'call for price' on every item, and if you weren't on hold forever when you call them, and if they had the stuff I want in stock.

[opiate]

Rule 1) Don't by anything that has to do with Mitsubishi or Chrystler.
Rule 2) Don't bother spending any money on tweaking a POS.
Rule 3) Buy a sports car that is designed for sporty driving instead of tuning a turtle to run like a rabbit because you'll never get the performance you want.


My $.02

[Ya_know]

I didn't want the disks resurfaced. The mechanic doing the brake job did it in the interest of saving me money (very little saved, big pain in the arse because of it) Anyway, the brakes stink. They stunk when new, and they stink worse now. I've found a few things online. I think I'll stay away from the 4-piston racing job that's over $1800 for parts. (front only)

Looks like I'll spend about $450 or so in parts for an upgraded front brake kit, and another $60-$90 for a good jack and jack stands to do the work myself. I'm also checking i n e p t's link to see if they can set me up any better.

Does the car have ABS? If you're going to spend the money on a fine aftermarket solution, be sure that you get all of the components to accommodate ABS (if that’s possible aftermarket)...doesn't matter how good the breaks are, you can always lock them up if you try hard enough...ABS should be the next new standard on ALL cars...forget about the tire pressure sensing requirements...

[Ya_know]

Rule 1) Don't by anything that has to do with Mitsubishi or Chrystler.
Rule 2) Don't bother spending any money on tweaking a POS.
Rule 3) Buy a sports car that is designed for sporty driving instead of tuning a turtle to run like a rabbit because you'll never get the performance you want.


My $.02

You know what, I was thinking that too…I have seen a lot of people dress up some crappy cars, corollas, civics, echo’s, with bolt on aftermarket breaks and go-faster parts…I agree with you, if the car wasn’t designed for performance, don’t drive it like it is…and don’t spend a ton of money on neat features that will be worthless to you when you trade it in, in a few years…

Sink money into a classic, not a daily driver…

[Camaro80z]

You know what, I was thinking that too…I have seen a lot of people dress up some crappy cars, corollas, civics, echo’s, with bolt on aftermarket breaks and go-faster parts…I agree with you, if the car wasn’t designed for performance, don’t drive it like it is…and don’t spend a ton of money on neat features that will be worthless to you when you trade it in, in a few years…

Sink money into a classic, not a daily driver…

Well Said!

[iceman]

Rule 1) Don't by anything that has to do with Mitsubishi or Chrystler.
Rule 2) Don't bother spending any money on tweaking a POS.
Rule 3) Buy a sports car that is designed for sporty driving instead of tuning a turtle to run like a rabbit because you'll never get the performance you want.


My $.02

Whoa, Whoa, Whoa, Mitsubishi Rocks. Have a Montero (full size not wimpy sport.) with 161,000 miles and not one problem. It goes places a Toyota or Nissan would cringe at. The Montero has won 17 years in Paris Dakar racing( 6,000 miles 4x4 event ).

Think your 2 cents is worthless. (Ok, Dodge sucks but they got a Hemi!)

[thirdfey]

You know what, I was thinking that too…I have seen a lot of people dress up some crappy cars, corollas, civics, echo’s, with bolt on aftermarket breaks and go-faster parts…I agree with you, if the car wasn’t designed for performance, don’t drive it like it is…and don’t spend a ton of money on neat features that will be worthless to you when you trade it in, in a few years…

Sink money into a classic, not a daily driver…

I enjoy driving and riding things beyonds their limits then driving or riding something beyond my limits. Just my .02

[Ya_know]

I enjoy driving and riding things beyonds their limits then driving or riding something beyond my limits. Just my .02

Make sense, please...?

[jitBob]

You know what, I was thinking that too…I have seen a lot of people dress up some crappy cars, corollas, civics, echo’s, with bolt on aftermarket breaks and go-faster parts…I agree with you, if the car wasn’t designed for performance, don’t drive it like it is…and don’t spend a ton of money on neat features that will be worthless to you when you trade it in, in a few years…

Sink money into a classic, not a daily driver…

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