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If you have the latest Apple replacement parts book, it should list it in that. If I remember correctly (I've repaired COUNTLESS hardware components in iMacs), Apple used either Maxtor or sometimes Seagate hard drives.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScorpioIlya
Go to the Apple site amd check the specs for the pc for the maker.
But, typically you are too late. Sporks case had to do with replacing the pcb, not opening the case itself, and if so, was very very lucky.
Check this here:
Quote:
Clicking, grinding or scraping noises indicate a head crash — the read/write heads have come into contact with the media surface, causing severe destruction.
Situation/Symptoms
Unusual noises - clicking, grinding, metal scraping.
What to Do
1) If booted up, back up any critical files.
2) Shut down the computer and DO NOT reboot.
Why
Extensive physical damage and permanent data loss can occur in a short period of time if a drive is left running.WARNING: Tampering with a damaged disk may cause data loss.
..............and even replacing the board is a very precise science, has to be exact same hdd in all respects as donor.
Even then, ive witnessed (and tried once - only once) the hdd go bang with that exact replacement.
I think you actually got a lot of useful advice, you just don't want to accept it because it doesn't make you look good. Useful advice is don't just take a hard drive apart and expect it to work again. That, is a TECH ANSWER.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScorpioIlya
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScorpioIlya
the reason that dissassembly was an especially bad idea is because of this:
When not in use, the heads rest on the stationary platters, but when in motion the spinning of the platters create air pressure that lifts the heads off the platters. The space between the platter and the head is so minute that even one dust particle or a fingerprint could disable the spin. This necessitates that hard drive assembly be done in a clean room.
Even if it is the controller card rather than the disk itself, now that is has been opened up outside of a class 100 clean room, you will not be able to get it working properly even with a new controller card. You will have to send it in to a data recovery center such as ontrack to be disassembled in their cleanroom and put on a stepping motor to recover the data.
(and btw, I am not now nor have I ever been a plumber..I do data recovery all the time..and I am thinking approx 1000-1250 bucks for this job)
I had a person with "critical" data on a drive once, wanted me to take a look at it, and insisted that I try everything. At first boot I got the click of death, and tried what I could, but it wouldn't even get picked up by the boot process of 3 PC's. I sent it in to a data recovery place that cracks them open (while still maintaining manufactures warrantee) then estimates the process necessary, and then offers a free quote. They said this sort of damage would start at $4600 to recover data, and they didn't guarantee any data would be recoverable...if they did pull it off, my friend would have to pay for it. Normally their rates start around $500-$1000 and go up from there, so we were taking a chance (hey, it was a free estimate)…turned out the data wasn’t so “critical” after all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spork
Scorp, you are being completely unreasonable. If you want support on the internals of a drive, you need to go to a forum where groups of specialized people hang out. Most of the people here are software specialists, with the basic hardware knowledge to assemble and troubleshoot a PC/server down to the component, not troubleshoot the component. Once you cross the line from tech to circuit/drive specialist, you’ve exhausted the scope of most of the extensive knowledge here.
Seems to me you owe everyone an apology for your outburst. Or you can just go on with the label script kiddie across you’re forhead…
Scorp, you opened a drive YOU KNEW was in warranty and fubar'd it.... now you want to shout at us? Get real.
If it's new, you send it back, period. That is what the warranty is for.
You could also pack it up, and send it to Drivesavers. They will give you a free estimate on retreiving the data. If you do not elect to have them fix it, they will send it back to you with a sticker on it that validates the warranty. They are recognized by every drive manufacturer, and the manufacturer will still consider the drive in warranty...https://forums.windrivers.com/images.../2005/03/1.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by ScorpioIlya
Scorp. As you clearly think that we in the Windrivers forums are sadly lacking in tech expertise and ability, then you'll obviously be looking for a better forum with PROPER techs in it.
When you do, would you be so kind as to post the address here, so we can see what advise they would give about dismantling a new hard drive.
:thumbs2:
Having come to this thread after talking about my own HDD problem I wonder, why would dust harm the drive? Many years ago I opened a dead drive and remember seeing what looked like a chrome disk with an arm on it... is the disk that fragile?Quote:
Originally Posted by TripleRLtd
Yes it is , read from the beginning as its explaned by some .Quote:
Originally Posted by NetScum
One nice little explanation I once read regarding the size of the read/write head compared to the gap between head and platter ... imagine a 747 jumbo jet flying at 500mph ... at an altitude of 6 INCHES . A steady hand on the control and nice flat ground, I think :)
Hmm..
Been inside hundreds of macs through the years, in fact was working in an imac this morning, replacing the hard drive.
Don't remember having seen an unidentified hard drive in any of them (or any PC come to that....)
This mornings was a Seagate ST32014A.... Replaced as was.
Damn, can't find a wind-up smiley.....
John
So, what about a response then Scorp??