Well, finally got it in. Temps for full overclock Palomino 2100+ @ 2 ghz @ 1.85V are at 35C down from 54C not overclocked.
Check it outhttp://www14.brinkster.com/godofuq/water.html
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Well, finally got it in. Temps for full overclock Palomino 2100+ @ 2 ghz @ 1.85V are at 35C down from 54C not overclocked.
Check it outhttp://www14.brinkster.com/godofuq/water.html
Nice looking rig - but I always will have nightmares about leaks on those things... :( :D
nice ! it looks great! and quieter too?!?!?!??! huh??!?!?!Quote:
Originally posted by A+Tech
Well, finally got it in. Temps for full overclock Palomino 2100+ @ 2 ghz @ 1.85V are at 35C down from 54C not overclocked.
Check it outhttp://www14.brinkster.com/godofuq/water.html
Much quieter. I actually have two Vantech Stealth 120mm fans on the radiator (one in one out) and those are silent as can be. And I was surprised because the pump is pretty quiet too. I leak tested everything overnight outside the case and it was fine. However, once I got it in and running, the connections to the radiator started leaking and I started freakin out. It was minor though, when I bent the tubes to be put in my case, it unhinged the clamp just a little bit. I put two cable ties on it and straightened the clamp back out and it seems to be fine.
Hmmm, might have to make an external enclosure for my radiator and pump... If I take them out of the case, I can get as low as 30C :D
Looks like you`ve taken some parts from a heart by pass machine :D :D
Where does the centre leg of the T piece go or is it a vent ?
It's a bleed and fill line. I can use it to fill the system without having to take anything apart and, by leaving some room free in the tube, it's a convenient bleed system since all the air goes straight there.Quote:
Originally posted by Archer
Looks like you`ve taken some parts from a heart by pass machine :D :D
Where does the centre leg of the T piece go or is it a vent ?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Archer
[B]Looks like you`ve taken some parts from a heart by pass machine :D :D
Thats a point
For case modders a colourful plasma,blood mix would accentuate the old LEDS.
Seriously tho how safe are the seals?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by constructor
[B]Don't see any reason they wouldn't be considered safe as long as you take the correct precautions (leak test, clamp correctly, distilled water, anti-corrosive agents, etc...)Quote:
Originally posted by Archer
Looks like you`ve taken some parts from a heart by pass machine :D :D
Thats a point
For case modders a colourful plasma,blood mix would accentuate the old LEDS.
Seriously tho how safe are the seals?
ya,out of all the time I have spent reading about water cooling,I have never heard of anyone having a leak!Quote:
Originally posted by A+Tech
Don't see any reason they wouldn't be considered safe as long as you take the correct precautions (leak test, clamp correctly, distilled water, anti-corrosive agents, etc...)
Or a floruescent dye,nice glow in the dark coloured hue :D .Quote:
Originally posted by constructor
For case modders a colourful plasma,blood mix would accentuate the old LEDS.
[/B]
Though seriously I`d be worried about the open vent leg in the case were it to get knocked or moved,no sealed cap to fit over it ?
Looks impressive.
A flourescent UV leak trace with a UV case lamp isn't a bad idea, see any leak straight away, glowing hoses look neat too.Quote:
Originally posted by Archer
Or a floruescent dye
There is a cap on the bleed line to prevent spillage.Quote:
Originally posted by Archer
Or a floruescent dye,nice glow in the dark coloured hue :D .
Though seriously I`d be worried about the open vent leg in the case were it to get knocked or moved,no sealed cap to fit over it ?
yeah - but get the tube, tie it into an intravienous drip kit straight into your jugular vein.Quote:
Originally posted by Archer
Or a floruescent dye,nice glow in the dark coloured hue :D .
Though seriously I`d be worried about the open vent leg in the case were it to get knocked or moved,no sealed cap to fit over it ?
Be at one with your PC.
Drink distilled Water & let me know how you get on.
I hope you are taking this seriously:p
I am in the process of building a water cooling system from scratch ( I know, I like to do things the hard way) I have a copper block which is drilled in a tic tac toe pattern with 2 x holes going throug the center of the block to get plenty of surface contact for the coolant. My nephiew has a Tropical fish supply comany, so i got a pump in exchange for some tweaking on his computer. I intend to use brass compression fittings and Synflex tubing. Synflex tubing, if you are not familiar with it is used in the air brake system of big trucks in place of copper. It is some kind of very strong plastic with a nylon liner and is made to work with brass compression fittings and is nto affected by water or Ethyene Glycol. It is rated for 250 psi pressure. It is inexpensive and seems like it would be considerably more reliable than vyanil tubing. it isn't as flexible, but is is flexible. It might be necessar to use brass elbows to turn sharp corners, but should last at least as long as the computer. what do you think?
Jim
You've got some good ideas in there but I if I may make one suggestion, you may want to rethink your waterblock if you want the best possible coolinig. It would be best to start your intake fitting towards the center so that it can be directly over the core of the processor. If you get the water straight from the radiator straight to the top of the core, this will probably be your most efficient choice.Quote:
Originally posted by jaimicook
I am in the process of building a water cooling system from scratch ( I know, I like to do things the hard way) I have a copper block which is drilled in a tic tac toe pattern with 2 x holes going throug the center of the block to get plenty of surface contact for the coolant. My nephiew has a Tropical fish supply comany, so i got a pump in exchange for some tweaking on his computer. I intend to use brass compression fittings and Synflex tubing. Synflex tubing, if you are not familiar with it is used in the air brake system of big trucks in place of copper. It is some kind of very strong plastic with a nylon liner and is made to work with brass compression fittings and is nto affected by water or Ethyene Glycol. It is rated for 250 psi pressure. It is inexpensive and seems like it would be considerably more reliable than vyanil tubing. it isn't as flexible, but is is flexible. It might be necessar to use brass elbows to turn sharp corners, but should last at least as long as the computer. what do you think?
Jim
Thanks for the suggestion. I will look into the idea of inserting the coolest water into the center of the heat sink
Jim
A+, where did you purchase the cooling kit from?
Got a link?
Neon paint another little mod to add on perhaps.
http://www.bit-tech.net/images/review/186/news.jpg
http://www.bit-tech.net/
And hows this if you cant afford water cooling ?
http://www.bit-tech.net/images/review/190/news.jpg
There's no need to fear, DangerDen is here.Quote:
Originally posted by Low_Level_Owl
A+, where did you purchase the cooling kit from?
Got a link?
The greatest products in watercooling. This is the only place that I have ever gotten my watercooling products from and they're great. This is my 3rd watercooler now (found people that absolutely loved the previous two so they bought the case with the water coolers for a healthy profit) and I'm keepin this one for myself. I've never had any problems with their products.
Did you buy one of the kits or did you pick and choose your parts? What kind of setup do you have the cooling kit running on?
I chose my own parts. Here's a little explanation of my setup:Quote:
Originally posted by Low_Level_Owl
Did you buy one of the kits or did you pick and choose your parts? What kind of setup do you have the cooling kit running on?
1/2" tubing - you'll be able to find parts with 1/2" OD and 3/8" ID without a problem and this allows for more water to flow through the system easily
Maze 3 copper top - The Maze 3 is their latest and greatest in terms of waterblocks and it has a great design and is made solid; I chose a copper top (extra $5) over the lucite one as the lucite is prone to cracking (don't worrry not too easily) from the barbs or by tightening the screws that hold it on too much; also, I had to use a clip instead of 4 screws to use this on my Mobo so the asthetic characteristics didn't matter to me; the extra does give better heat dissipation over the lucite top
Black Ice Pro Radiator - go with this as a minimum as it supports a 120mm fan as opposed to an 80mm fan. I decided to use 2 Vantech stealths I had laying around, 1 blowing in, 1 blowing away. If you choose to use only 1 fan (which is fine) have it blowing air away from the radiator not into it
Hydor L30 pump - These Hydor pumps are rated just as well as the Eheim pumps are but are much cheaper. This pump can be used as an inline or submersible. I didn't want to use a reservoir so I put it in an inline system.
Extras -
CPU Clip - I got this with a CPU clip instead of their regular 4 mounting screws that are included because of my motherboard. The clip is nice, is easy to use and definately gives you a sense of security as it uses all 6 clips on your zif socket.
Tubing - well, yeah!?!
Hose clamps - save yourself the trip to the hardware store
T tube - Works great as a bleeder line; let me know if you don't know how this works and I'll explain
Water wetter - get it, definately. Make sure you use distilled water in any water cooling systems and not tap water. On top of that, water wetter helps to prevent corrosion if you're using different types of metal and it also helps cool the water better
Let me know if you have any questions
Thanks for the info. I've been looking at getting a watercooling kit for my computer. I like to do a little bit of overclocking but the sound that comes from the heatsink fan is what is swaying me to get a watercooling kit.
Once I get enough cash I'll probably be buying a similar setup as yours...
Thanks for the info!!
Hope you dont mind A+Tech I used a link to one of your pictures as an example of good cooling techniques on another forum here
That's fine by me but my webhoster doesn't allow linking to pictures. You may want to upload it to your own space or put the html link I provided from the first page there.Quote:
Originally posted by Archer
Hope you dont mind A+Tech I used a link to one of your pictures as an example of good cooling techniques on another forum here
Thanks for the heads up A+Tech ammendments made to point to your link not the picture.
NO Hoses !!!!
Wonder if this really works?? check it out :D
http://www.1coolpc.com/waterx.htm
sounds the same as heatpipe to me
Yea, only worse. They have been plagued with busted reservoirs and, even when it does work correctly, I've seen average temps for a Tbird and Tbred between 50-65C. Not good in anyones book especially with the threat of water leaking in your system.Quote:
Originally posted by goinpostal
NO Hoses !!!!
Wonder if this really works?? check it out :D
http://www.1coolpc.com/waterx.htm
sounds the same as heatpipe to me
Seems to hold an awful small amount of fluid to keep the system cool the fan would have to disipate an awful lot of heat to make up for the low flow rate.
I know I've posted this before but buy a small dorm fridge (around 80 U$) drill adequate holes in the side and stick your radiator/pump inside. Its relatively cheap, its REAL silent and it works great. I even immerse my radiator inside in a metal bucket of water to maximise heat dissipation.:cool:
Wow, looks good A+Tech!!
I like your idea jaimicook and think its enjoyable to do things like your attempting :) . Man, that’s a damn good idea Duke of Rezin with the little fridge. Does the water in the bucket freeze up or you got it set at above freezing temp?
I bought the Zalman CNPS6000-Cu and it works great! See, you place a large 92mm fan on top which cools the heatsink and the northbridge if placed right. Now what I want to do is take out the 92mm fan and place some kind of plastic wall around the heatsink to turn it into a cpu waterblock. Man that would work great!! I mean this "flower" design sucks up so much of the heat that a water block around it would eliminate the fan. Ofcourse have a pump, puming water through it. So basically, the heatsink would be inside the newly made plastic wall creating a bizarre Zalman CNPS6000-CU waterblock. Now that would be cool :cool:. Any ideas? lol
That could actually be done but you don't want to use plastic. Cooling and heating of the water would cause it to become brittle and eventually crack. It would be best to do it with copper but I would fear that size wouldn't work too well with everything on your motherboard and would also weigh a ton. While it works in theory, I think if it were implemented, it may not work too well because there would be too much water in the block and not enough flow. You may get a wierd routing problem which would cause a lot of heated water to be sitting on top of your processor. I've seen a watercooling unit before where someone forgot to turn on their pump, the water boiled and one of the hoses at the pump burst, inside their case while the computer was on. This may acheive similar results.
I have my pump sitting inches below the freezer portion with the freezer's lid removed and the radiator sits below that. I also have a fan (for convection) sitting next to it and nothing has ever frozen. The system does need to be defrosted about every two weeks. The Zalman Project sounds interesting. You could get a piece of plexiglass from a glass dealer and I even think Lowe's or Home Depot sells it if you're in the US.