Case Painting Tutorial

[ephmynus]

Let me know what you think

When I first started modding, I always looked at painting as one of those things that stood in my way from completing my project. It was the item I spent the least amount of time with because, after all, it was just painting and painting is painting, right? Needless to say, when I finished my first "professional" paint job in which I devoted time and care to what I was doing, I realized that I was very wrong in my assumption.

The first thing to do, even before going out and buying stuff is your planning stage. Don't EVER skip this stage. You can't have a well executed battle without first having a well executed plan. Draw out what you want first. Take all of your pieces off of your case that you will be painting. Remove LEDs and switches, drive covers and any other pieces that should not be painted or should be painted separate from what they are attached to. Also, tape up any areas that you are not able to remove that you do not want to paint.

To begin, we need to list the tools of the trade. First, you need a good, well ventilated area. I tend to paint outside, but it's best to work in an open garage or shop if possible. Try to avoid windy days and try to paint in the 70 degree range. For everyone out there, especially the ones still living with their parents... DON'T PAINT YOUR PORCH!!! I can't stress that enough. Newspaper is so cheap. Go out, get yourself a Sunday paper and you'll have more than enough painting drop cloths. Clean up is really easy as well. For this project, I'll be using two different colors of paint so I will need a total of 4 cans or types of paint. I need both my colors of paint, I need primer and I need clear coat. I also picked myself up a spray can "trigger" as your fingers tend to get mighty tired after pressing on the top of that can for such a long time. This little $1 item works wonders when it comes to spray painting a lot. Here is my full list of what I needed and purchased before I began my project:

1 Can Gray Paint
1 Can Purple Paint
1 Can Primer (maybe 2 depending on your surface area)
1 Can Clear Coat
1 Pack 150 Grit Sand Paper
1 Pack 800 Grit Sand Paper
1 Pack 1500 Grit Sand Paper
1 Spray Can "Trigger"
1 Roll Masking Tape
1 Exacto Knife
1 Sunday Newspaper



I want to delve a little into the world of paint. This is really one of those times that you get what you pay for. If you pay for a $1.00 can of generic paint from the dollar store, expect to get the same type of paint job in return. I think most people, who would be spending this much money and time on a project such as this, can stand to pay an extra couple of bucks on paint. Make sure your paint is recommended for metal and go with automotive paint if you really want to go all out. I use a Krylon paint that is about $5 a can but is worth it once the project is completed. Just don't go cheap on the spray paint. It's not too expensive as it is.

Once you have all of your items, let me explain a little bit about sand paper. Unfortunately, on this particular case, I had already rushed one paint job so I needed to sand off all the old paint. Sand Paper is going to be crucial to your project and you need to sand after every step. I began with 150 grit sand paper which is pretty heavy. I needed this to take off all the old paint that was already on there. If you have an unpainted case, you could use 150 grit but I would suggest more along the lines of a 220 grit. Some people say that you need to sand all the way to the bare metal when you do this. I don't think that is completely necessary but you can see I did in some areas. You're just looking for an ultra smooth surface after sanding. If you can do this, as I did, with part bare metal and part original paint still on there - Good, don't sand any more than you need to as it is a bare. Just make sure you have a good surface to work on. I sanded for many hours on this project but it is definately worth it when you see the outcome.



So, after the inital sanding, we're ready to paint. Just lay out a bunch of newspaper and do one piece at a time. I started my different pieces one day apart from each other so I didn't try to rush anything. I fixed my trigger on to the primer can and with nice, smooth strokes began priming the first side. Don't go too thick on any coats of paint. I usually do two passes for each coat of paint. This helps me to not spray on one area too long. I recommend holding the can about 12 inches away from the paper and don't point the can directly down. I hold the can about 45 degrees and you get a nice fluid spray from the can. Once the first coat of primer is done, put it somewhere out of the way and definately not outside. I coated the top of my washer and dryer in my laundry room with newspaper to set all my pieces on for drying. Between each coat, let the items sit for 24 hours to ensure they are dry. Most paint nowadays will tell you it will be dry in an hour or two or even a couple of minutes. Be sure to let the items sit for 24 hours to ensure the paint is cured. Paint can be dried but not cured and if you sand just dry paint, be ready for a long haul.



The next step is to get out the 800 grit sandpaper for some wet sanding. I just set the item in my bathtub and get the water running. The point to this sanding is not taking the paint off, thus the fine grit on it. The point to this is to get out all the painting imperfections - small bubbles, smears and the kamikaze fly that may have made a suicide dive before you were able to get your case inside (Be sure to pick it out of the paint first). With nice, circular strokes, sand the item very lightly to get out all of the "bumps." Dry the item very well and then repeat with another coat of primary, sit for 24 hours and another wet sanding with 800 grit paper.



Now we are on to actually painting the item. I have two colors on my case as well as a design but we won't get into that. After you have wet sanded with 800 grit for the second time, we get to take this beast outside and put REAL paint on it. Again, cover the area well and do nice smooth strokes. After each coat of paint, be sure to clean the nozzle of the paint can so you won't be spraying dried paint or bubbles. Start spraying on the newspaper beside your item, take a smooth stroke across, and finish beyond the item. You never want to start or end spraying the object directly. Once you have let that item dry for 24 hours, we can wet sand again. But this time, it will be 1500 grit sand paper.... very, very fine. This is, again, to take out very minute abrasions in your item but these should be even smaller than before as we have done all of our sanding along the way. Do this wet sand just as you did with the previous 800 grit being sure it is smooth once you are finished. Dry it well and repeat with paint, waiting 24 hours and more sanding.



At this point, your item should be looking immaculate but missing one thing - that showroom shine. To take care of this, we pull out our trusty can of clear coat. I only put one coat of this one and don't sand afterwards. Put it on just as you do the paint and let it sit 24 hours before touching it. Many people elect to use rubbing compound at this point but I don't. Most rubbing compound is just "liquid sandpaper" in that it is supposed to take out abrasions or imperfections at about 1500 grit. Why spend the money as we have already used 1500 grit sandpaper. Use it if you would like but I don't see much of a difference.



Well, there you go. I hope you're as pleased with your case as you should be after spending that much time on it. Please feel free to email me with any questions or to let me know what you thought about this tutorial at [email protected].

[Fierce]

Awesome write-up man!!! If I may add some of my own experiences to this, not to take away from what have throughly explained, but to add to it....

I only use painters tape instead of masking tape, when taping up areas that I don't wish to be painted. Reason being is that painters tape won't peel of your fresh coat of paint and won't stick or "rip" off like masking tape sometimes will. The type I use comes in a good size roll, 2" wide and is blue.

A suggestion would be to use an electric sander of some type when you take the original paint off the case. You will be bummin if you try to do it by hand!!!! BUT REMEMBER...don't use an electric sander when wet sanding!!!! It could have some adverse affects! Lightly sand by hand when wet sanding! Also, start out with 220 grit paper for initial sanding, if it is taking a little while to get down to metal, drop down to like 120 grit, and you will notice the paint coming off a little easier. I wouldn't go lower than that in grit numbers, or you will put some nice scratches in the metal! Also, don't worry if you go to bare metal, thats what primer if for. Also, make sure to spray at a room temperature.

OK, thats all from me, just wanted to add a copuple of things I have learned and experienced! Good Luck all...and good job APlus!

[ephmynus]

Thanks for your addition fierce. I would use an electric sander for other people's case but not my own I do think, in a very minute way, that it takes away from the overall look of the case but not too much. Unfortunately, when it comes to case mods for myself, I want it to be perfect but when I do it for other people, there's no way I'm gonna spend 6 hours sanding for them Also, masking tape does seem to work fine for me as long as you don't apply it until your 24 hour curing period and DON'T EVER PUT IT ON PRIMER... you'll be sorry.

[Garak]

Great write up Aplus, has given me alot to think about, now all me wants is a dremel, some cutting tools and lots of paint, oh and a new case

[deseqer]

Thanks for the steps Aplustech. I have be trying to figure out how to make my case shine. All I need to figure out now is how Fierce1 makes his windows look so good. Or is it top secret?

[MD_Geist]

anything special needed to paint the platic face plates at all?

Juct curious if the sanding would be necisary for the plastic at all...

That and any tips on cutting windows/designs in the metal would help much...


thanks
MD

[ephmynus]

In regards to the faceplates, it's really up to you. I don't sand mine but I want a textured look on them. If you want smooth faceplates, sand 'em... just not too much as they are relatively thin.

I do all my window cutting with a dremel. This requires a great plan ahead of time. If you're anxious to cut, cut something else like an old 386 case. Don't rush it. Plan very well and, if you have the slightest thought it may not turn out the way you like, stop and replan until you are happy. Cut slow and smooth and cut from the outside of the panel. It will burn the case pretty bad using a dremel, some marks of which will not come out. Use the dremel on the outside of the case panel and you should be able to clean all of those marks up pretty nice.

[deseqer]

[quote]Originally posted by Aplustech:
<strong>I do all my window cutting with a dremel. This requires a great plan ahead of time. If you're anxious to cut, cut something else like an old 386 case. Don't rush it. Plan very well and, if you have the slightest thought it may not turn out the way you like, stop and replan until you are happy. Cut slow and smooth and cut from the outside of the panel. It will burn the case pretty bad using a dremel, some marks of which will not come out. Use the dremel on the outside of the case panel and you should be able to clean all of those marks up pretty nice.</strong><hr></blockquote>

So once you have the holes cut and the case painted do you install plexyglass behind the hole you cut or do you leave it open?

I have aready cut the hole using a sabre saw and I think I found the molding some of you talk about.(looking at old post I did not make diameter of the corners large enought.) but hey the case was free and I am still in experement stage.

[ephmynus]

Definately put plexi behind it. I wouldn't recommend leaving any holes larger than the diameter of your thumb open on your computer. Plexi can be found pretty cheap at most local hardware stores and they should be able to cut it to the exact size you need.

[deseqer]

Thanks for all the help. I think tonight when I get home I am going to try different ways to attach the plexi. Some involve glue, pop rivets, and the hammer. Thanks Again.

[ephmynus]

I have tried rivets before and, while they look very cool, they have a tendency to crack the plexi glass as they work on pressure. I would suggest super glue if you wanted to but my own personal favorite is JB Weld. It's a cold weld compound and it will hold anything together. I, unfortunately, didn't have any the last time I attached my window to my case so I used Arctic Silver adhesive. Sure it worked great but at $14 for 6 grams it made it a very expensive window application

[deseqer]

[quote]Originally posted by Aplustech:
<strong>I would suggest super glue if you wanted to but my own personal favorite is JB Weld. It's a cold weld compound and it will hold anything together. I, unfortunately, didn't have any the last time I attached my window to my case so I used Arctic Silver adhesive. Sure it worked great but at $14 for 6 grams it made it a very expensive window application </strong><hr></blockquote>

Weren't you going top end on everything on that case.

[ephmynus]

I tell ya, if I had something else around at the time, I would have used it. Unfortunately, I didn't and I wanted to get that plexi in bad so I opted for the AS

[Fierce]

[quote]Originally posted by deseqer:
<strong>All I need to figure out now is how Fierce1 makes his windows look so good. Or is it top secret?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Top Secret!

I have my new case almost done...and I'll show you some more fancy windows!

[ephmynus]

^Bump^ for newbs