[RESOLVED] Paint Removal
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Thread: [RESOLVED] Paint Removal

  1. #1
    Darren Wilson
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    Question Paint Removal

    Can someone suggest a good Paint Stripping fluid that they have used successfully on the paint that is standard across PC chassis's? I have tried a brand called Nitromor's over here in the UK which is a bloody good paint stripper, but it never touched the surface of the paint. It is taking me too long and costing me a fortune in sandpaper to remove it by hand, so any serious suggestions would be appreciated.

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  2. #2
    Fierce1
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    I use a DeWalt 5" Orbital sander to remove the existing paint from a case, and use 100 grit paper to start. It works, it quick, plus you can use the sander for other home projects. I don't know anything about paint strippers, (take it all off! j/k), but I think it could get messy. Plus you have to make sure that the metal surface is entirely wiped clean of the left over stripper. Good Luck and let us know how you end up getting the paint off the case.

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    [This message has been edited by Fierce1 (edited October 20, 2001).]

  3. #3
    Darren Wilson
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    I managed to get abut a third of a panel off last night (Supermicro Full Tower) and I placed the panels outside (big mistake!!!) woke up this morning and it had rained, & the panel has started to rust already!!!! Looks like I will be buying a Llan Li PC7USB this week now

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  4. #4
    Registered User In The Wind's Avatar
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    If it is truly paint, acetone should melt it right down to the metal. If it is some other coating, plastic maybe, a wire rotary brush in a drill motor may work. Clean off the rust with a metal brush, use a zinc base primer, should come out good and last well. BTW, acetone = open area with fresh air and NO flames or sparks. Failure to follow those guidlines will result in your meeting new people, and havening a bad day. Good luck!

  5. #5
    Adm¡nistrator JungleMan1's Avatar
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    [quote]Originally posted by Darren Wilson:
    <strong>I managed to get abut a third of a panel off last night (Supermicro Full Tower) and I placed the panels outside (big mistake!!!) woke up this morning and it had rained, & the panel has started to rust already!!!! Looks like I will be buying a Llan Li PC7USB this week now

    </strong><hr></blockquote>

    Take a look at the Coolermaster line before buying a Lian Li..

  6. #6
    Registered User Darren Wilson's Avatar
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    [quote]Originally posted by JungleMan:
    <strong>

    Take a look at the Coolermaster line before buying a Lian Li.. </strong><hr></blockquote>

    Already have done, but I am not going to pay nearly double for a CoolerMaster to what I am going to pay for a Llan Li.

  7. #7
    Registered User Major Kong's Avatar
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    Darren it's probably to late for this but there are some excellent spray strippers. A company called ChemSearch makes a very good citrus based stripper ( ). I know they sell international. You would have to buy it from a UK supplier (Doh sorry about the redundany).
    Anyway great luck with the new Llan Li case (they are awesome)!

  8. #8
    Registered User Darren Wilson's Avatar
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    Oh wel, I went & robbed my local DIY store today of a Orbital snader. DOen teh deed in no time at all once I changed the sanding sheets from the supplied ones to a decent type. It is amazing how much 2 identical grit sand papers can vary in performance.

    Front case holes are now drilled in the plastic and the metal panels are down to bare steel (damn do they look good like that), just got to try to find a 80mm Metal Hole cutter now to make 4 nice 80mm blowholes.

  9. #9
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    Wish I'd caught this earlier - brake fluid makes an excellent paint stripper and will not harm material underneath. Just don't use that expen$ive silicon based stuff though. What brand sandpaper are you using, Darren?
    Reg

  10. #10
    Registered User Mad Machinist's Avatar
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    DW.......coating that I have encountered is powder coat....and a glass bead cabinet makes quick work of it...............check any automotive machine shop, they should have one. 10 to 15 min should be all it takes if there is a next time....and it leaves a nice matte finish similiar to stainless.........iI leave it in the white on jobs all the time and just cover with clear flat enamel........and hope you were wearing a respirator when you were sanding that stuff off. On the holes......Greenlee makes a mechanical hole punch that any good electrician should have.......cuts a nice clean hole with no chatter marks or burs that usually come with a hole saw.........Hop you find the suggestions useful.
    Rudolph N. Koester
    U.S.Army(disabled)
    ASE Certified Master Engine Machinist

    "Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body,but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out shouting "...holy ****...what a ride!"

    Don't pick a fight with an old man. If he's too old to fight... he'll just kill you. J. Steinbeck

  11. #11
    Registered User Darren Wilson's Avatar
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    Case is bare metal now with 4 x 80mm blowholes (2 @ top 2 @ off-side of case). Cut holes using a Jigsaw and a polishing wheel to make them nice & round(ish). Plastic is now all painted up and sealed with acrylic sealer. Going to wait until the metal has been painted then give teh whole base a couple of coats of lacquer. Plastic bezel at front has been perforateed to allow a lot more air into the system from teh 2 x 80mm that I am going to install at teh front of the case.

    Hopefully should be able to get some pics soon.
    Darren Wilson is the ....... MONKEY HUNTER..... Coming to a big screen near you soon!!!

  12. #12
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    MDK works great use it on everything, cleaning greasy hands, to clean car parts to stripping paint.

    Its environmental safe and it will Evaporate in menutes. So cleanup is very ez.

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